Monday, January 14, 2013

Quito Finale and Farewell


Our last few days in Quito were really nothing exceptional. When you return to a city three times, there is a sense of comfort about it that does not propel you into wanting to do much. We didn’t want to leave with regrets, so we did push a bit.



The city government house has free tours if you are willing to wait in line. This is the same place that has the toy soldier guards standing outside that we walked into once before, but never got as far as the garden. This was our Saturday morning opportunity, but it seemed that the locals had similar ideas, creating a huge line with only 20 people admitted for a tour at one time. It was hot out creating an uncomfortably sunny line of waiting. While I held our place, Ron went to check out another cultural place we had ignored up to now. Twenty minutes later he returned as I was baking in the sun. Taking my place, I took respite in the shade, but then walked over to reread the sign of the building we were waiting entrance to. Good thing I did, because each person needed their national ID or passport to get in. We had neither and could have been turned away at the gate.



Giving up that idea, we went right next door to the Quito Cultural Center. Given that there are two guards standing in the doorway, it is intimidating to just walk in, but we did freely and without grief or harassment. In the extensive courtyard, the public is privy to a photography show of an Ecuadorian’s photos of people and places of Quito. As great as the photos were, the rest of the downstairs rooms had art from various artists with works of portraits or self-portraits that ranged from weird to incredibly creative. Exploring the 2nd and 3rd floors of this massive building, we discovered that it contains a library segmented room by room with divisions of books. One room held social sciences, another economics and so on. There were two rooms for the children’s books at two different ends of the long hallway. On the 3rd floor, you can walk out to view the city, though the views are not spectacular, but interesting. We did witness some demonstration in the park, but never found out the reason.



This was our last chance to get to the Egas Museum, the work of a famous Ecuadorian painter. We had made attempts on our last two visits, but it was closed. The plan was to have lunch at Govinda’s, a full 3 course meal for $2 and then walk across the street to the museum. Foiled again, the museum was still closed without any posting of hours.



Shopping or at least window shopping took up the rest of the afternoon, before reading/writing time. Dinner was at a restaurant decorated with Harley Davidson and Coca Cola enameled signs on the wall. It was there I discovered that one of the arms of my designer sunglasses was missing. As we were leaving, we heard music in the nearby courtyard. Wandering over, there was a free public indigenous dance performance, an Ecuadorian ballet in traditional costumes with a man dressed as a shaman. I could have kicked myself for not bringing my camera.



Sunday, as we walked to the main square, we found all of the major streets were blocked from traffic. We found that on Sundays, this is the routine. It is to encourage people to ride their bikes and exercise. There are blocks and blocks of bike and pedestrian access. Children taking advantage are speeding down hills at velocities that would make me pale, taking advantage of the free access, though they are competing with the trolley buses still.



We had never made it to inside the basilica and thought to hire a taxi, but with the lack of auto access, it was not possible. We walked instead up some really steep hills that required step, step, step, rest… step, step, step, rest… step, step, step, sit down somewhere. We came across the vertical garden, the one we had seen from trolley buses only until now.



At the bus terminal, there is handicraft market that we have seen before, but never perused. There were some interesting crafts and some we could not make heads or tails of either. There was a local musical band playing and people were in the center of the booths dancing. There were a couple of really elderly women dancing alone doing some unusual movements. I would have loved to have seen them with partners.



When the basilica was in view, I was almost tempted to thank a higher power. We could get in only because a mass was being conducted. Compared the gold and glitter of all of the other churches we have seen, this was a poor step-sister in comparison. I had my camera, but was not motivated to take a single photo. Outside was different. They had a roasted pig and were serving like an old fashioned American church dinner. We were not certain if this is customary or if there was a special reason. Ron happened to notice the gargoyles were indigenous animals like iguanas and turtles. Attached to the church is a crypt; it was very interesting as it resembled our bunk beds on the cruise.



On our way back we stopped one more time at the Egas Museum only to find it closed still. Back in the main square, we had to stop in the tourism office yet again. Ron had spotted a wall hanging that he really liked for the blue bedroom. After deliberating the expense, we returned to purchase it.



The rest of the day was reading and writing until 4 pm when we wanted to try La Ronda once again. The last two times we were there at different hours and different days, the majority of places were closed. Today turned out to be no exception. I can only wonder at how these places can exist or if there really is a business behind the metal barriers where a business once was. It was disappointing. Stopping for a coffee, I had convinced Ron he needed to try a hot chocolate. The chocolate here is supposed to be beyond compare as is the coffee. Neither my coffee nor his hot chocolate were worthy of mention.



Tomorrow, we fly from Quito to Panama City on Copa Airlines, followed by KLM from Panama City to Amsterdam and then finally Amsterdam to Budapest again on KLM. Until then…

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