Showing posts with label snorkeling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label snorkeling. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 09, 2013

365 Steps Bartolome Island, Santiago Island, Sullivan Bay

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Bartolome Island 

7:00 Breakfast
8:00 Dry landing – Sandals or shoes, easy trail, Look out, 365 steps
10:00 Back on board
12:00 Lunch

Santiago Island
Sullivan Bay
 
2:30 Snorkeling off of the dinghy or beach time
3:30 Back on board
4:00 Dry landing – closed shoes, lava formations, rocky trail
5:30 Back on board 
6:30 Cocktail – Dinner – Briefing

Our last full day on the cruise has finally arrived along with my mixed feelings. We have been really enjoying the people we have had the week to share time with, admittedly, I have enjoyed the hikes even when they were really strenuous, and of course the meals. Most everyone shares their time with those who speak their native language, but each person has been friendly, helpful and considerate of all of the others. At times, we have had small group chats as well, reviewing the stories du jour.

Miraculous mini-banquets are prepared by the cook who concocts amazingly diverse and for the most part healthy meals in a kitchen that is about the size of our small bathroom plus ½ yet again. He has taken the vegetarians seriously, always having something to supplement their meal when we have fish or meat as a main course. Fish nights, I go vegetarian too. Because I told the barman that I am diabetic, thus the reason for my refusing dessert each night, he or the cook have prepared special fruits for me which is more than kind. The last creation was a shark in a banana suit, with thin slices of tree tomatoes as dorsal fins and greenery from a scallion to adorn the top fin.  

This morning, we will have a dry landing, meaning we will arrive at a dock with the dinghy. We have been promised that we will climb 365 steps, nothing that I am looking forward to and not even sure I will be able to complete it. Would it have been better not knowing the number of steps or just being surprised? Either way, I did not count them, I was counting my inhalations and expirations instead wondering if they would airlift me out when I keeled over. 

The purpose of this was to visit volcanoes that erupted from under the sea and pushed upward, creating the island. To prevent erosion, the park services had to create a boardwalk, which was a great help, otherwise walking on lava rock in places would have been treacherous and there would not be a way to climb to the top lookout point. What Omar neglected to mention was that we would be walking about 600 steps before we even started climbing steps that actually escalated up to the top. 

At 4 different points along the way, we stopped to hear some commentary, which is difficult to comprehend when you are gasping for oxygen. Pleasingly, the two young Polish guys and one of the young Russian men were also panting as hard as I was at times and each of them looked to be worthy specimens  of a men’s health magazine cover. Marco the Swiss man could also be a cover model, but he did the steps without displaying any additional effort. Each section of the climb up, I analyzed how much I really wanted to call an end this sojourn and wait here for the others to return. Instead, I unrelentingly carried this carcass upward to the very top. The rest of the group had only achieved the same success minutes ahead of me, making me feel quite accomplished. 

On the way and on the top, we heard about the volcanoes, some that erupt above ground; others erupt under the sea and push the lava upward. There were craters there and on and on. Omar told me the other day that 500 people apply to be official Galapagos guides and only 30 are chosen. Those chosen have strenuous training for years. It all makes me feel badly that so little of what he shares stays with any of us. When I question the others of the day’s teachings, no one has remembered more than I. Most of this group is twenty years my junior, so it is not a memory issue. If I could take notes (no one is stopping me, mind you), I would have more to share. Sorry! These are like my students’ end of semester exams. Remember it for the test and then swish, it is gone from the memory. The one trivia point I do remember is that Neil Armstrong was here and said it reminded him of the moon’s landscape. 

Before lunch there was a snorkeling or beach swim option. I would have been the only one to do the beach swim option; therefore, opting to stay on the boat instead. With everyone gone, I had all of the lounge chairs on the upper deck to myself to read and snooze, read and snooze, and that is exactly what I did until they returned. 

Fish was served for lunch, so I along with the vegetarians, had a stuffed tomato. Other items were rice, potato salad with peas, carrots mixed with string beans, and green salad. These buffets are the nemesis of anyone watching their weight. It is too readily available to return for seconds once everyone has had first choice. Fingers are pointing back at me. 

Post lunch was snorkeling again for the last time this trip. It was off of the dinghy again. Ron by-passed it this time to take a nap instead. A beach visit was the other option, but since we are leaving tomorrow, I did not see any sense in getting my bathing suit wet only to cart it back to Quito wet. Those that did snorkel discovered 2 sharks, sting-rays and a number of yellow finned fish. A couple had seals swimming around them coming face to face bearing teeth. A few reported seeing turtles mating. Sitting on the boat bobbing up and down and to and fro was so relaxing for me, I did not miss a thing. 

At 4:30, we went out on the dinghy again for the lava formations. We were concerned it would be more of the same as yesterday, but actually it was quite different. The majority of the island was molten lava. Omar told us there were four different types of formations. Most interesting were those that looked like braids of a thick rope or corn rowed hair. 

I kept seeing designs made by nature in the way the lava cooled. There was a squid with long tentacles, a mermaid, horse’s head, and others. It would be interesting to have a photography contest here. Photographers are set loose for X number of hours to photograph shapes that could be clearly interpreted as something realistic, not abstract. At the end of a certain time period, after they have them printed and mounted, there is a judging. Should I sell my idea to the parks services?

Dinner included a cocktail, tasty, but I could not identify it. The captain toasted us with a long speech in Spanish, which Omar gracefully translated as “He enjoyed having you on board.” Had Omar translated the full monologue, dinner would have been delayed by hours. Carin, our Dutch femme fatale, was delegated to give the toast and thanks to the crew from our group. Ron and I were approached as the “senior statesmen” of the group, but being such, we delegated instead. The younger ones need the practice after all. 

After the Last Supper, we had our briefing for tomorrow. I had the foresight to create a table for everyone’s e-mail address. All but one person, one of the Australians shared their information.

Time to pack.

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Tuesday, January 08, 2013

Santiago Island, Egas Point, Espumilla Bay

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Egas Point

7:00 Breakfast
8:00 Wet landing sandals, black beach, fur seals
Snorkeling off of the beach
11:00 Back on Board
11:30 Lunch

Espumilla Bay 
1:30 Wet landing – closed shoes, bird watching, rocky trail
3:30 Back on board
4:00 Snorkeling off the dinghy Bucanero Cove
5:00 Back on board
6:30 Dinner
Hawai’i has black sand beaches, but I have never been to the islands that have them. Today was my first experience with a black sand beach and it is awesome. It is far from my bleached blonde sandy grained expectations as one can get. Watching the black grains crawl up between your toes as you walk not only massages your feet, but tickles too. Perhaps the tickle in the novelty of it all. I hated leaving it for the trail we were to follow, but we were promised fur sea lions misnamed as fur seals so it was a trade-off. Walking through trails intersecting through various plant life forms, we were given our botany lesson for the morning. That is about as long as it lasted too. If I have not mentioned it, there are no seals in the Galapagos Islands, only sea lions; get it straight or Omar will punish you later.

Soon the smooth trails were over and we were back on the rocks spotting the iguanas, crabs, finally the fur seals, which we learned were mislabeled. They are fur sea lions. Other than some longer hair, they look basically the same. When they are dry, they are a desert sand color, darkening to almost black looking when they are wet. There were a number of babies, many with black rings around their eyes. They are so adorable.  

Those that chose to snorkel went off of the beach. There was another tour group returning at the same time. Some of the men looked about ready to have a stroke. Their bellies individually were larger than the diameter of my body if I bent in half to double my size. Panting away, I felt sorry for them as I know the feeling, but without the girth. One man who was probably around 70 years old and weighed a good 280 lbs if an ounce, flopped on a rock never moving a muscle the entire time we remained on the beach. I hope he did not stroke out and no one noticed. While our group went snorkeling, I sat under a tree reading. One of the other group members joined me. He is a professor of paleontology at Ohio State and a woman with the group is from the same university, but is a botanist.

Lunch started with a soup, chicken noodle, fresh but not flavorful. This led to the rest of lunch being extremely memorable; we had shrimp and ceviche. That was quite a treat. When we finished lunch, we sailed to Espumilla Bay giving us a reprieve to sun bathe, rest, or whatever we wanted. My goal was to get a nap in since my nights are interrupted with the anchor being raised and lowered. It is futile to get twenty solid winks with the noises going on all around.

Getting ready for the next shore excursion, we were told it would be a bit wild as the waves were rougher than they have been. For wet landings where we need our sneakers or closed toe shoes, we go barefoot onto the dinghy carrying our shoes. Being forewarned, I had my camera in a plastic bag and then in an Ikea nylon bag. Ron was not ready yet and only 8 people can travel by dinghy at a time, so I went in the first of the 2 trips. When we arrive for a wet landing, the crew does their best to get as close to shore as possible, we jump out, hoping not to get our pants wet, and then run on shore. Most people wear shorts, but I have been rolling up my pant legs. Just as we arrived and were told to jump out, a large unexpected wave came along and soaked all of us with all of our things. There was about a foot of water in the dinghy floor sloshing along with the whim of the currents. My first instinct was to dry my camera; even the plastic bag did not completely protect it. Covered in wet clothes with salty water did not contribute much to my sleep deprived mood, but the others’ good nature soon helped evaporate my melancholy feelings.

The walk went from flat ground, sandy, but comfortable to slightly rocky with a 20% incline. It was when it started to get rockier and the incline steeper that I started wondering if I was going to make it. Saving me from humiliation one of the woman ahead of me kept stopping along the way for photos of things I had previously photographed, but it gave me a respite. We saw a number of different birds and lizards. I am convinced that unless you video the entire walk, there is no way to remember all that you saw. In retrospect it was a worthy outing and beneficial exercise in spite of my shortness of breath.

Our return trip was less traumatic; the tides relaxed their eagerness to give those waves like they were never going to see us again. There was a short time for the snorkelers to ready themselves before going to dive in the cove. Both the crew and I were looking forward to the peace and quiet once they had gone. After a half hour, they were back. Something was happening to cause the water to create little to know visibility with the exception of a number of jellyfish, requiring them to return early.   

We only have 1 more full day on the boat before returning to Quito. As much as I have enjoyed all of the people, getting on and off the boat with wet landings is getting tiring. I had already washed one set of pants, 2 shirts, and a pair of socks, but it took 3 days for all of them to dry. It will be pleasant to get into clothes that do not have salt water or detergent residue clinging to the fibers.

Internet withdrawal is setting in, but so far I have fought it off. Today, I had phantom vibrations in my pocket thinking it was my smartphone ringing. When I get back to Quito, Ron will have to rip me away from the computer, but I want to get caught up with everything.

Memo to self: make a list of everyone’s e-mail addresses.
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Sunday, January 06, 2013

Floreana Island, Post Office Bay, Cormorat’s Point

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Floreana Island
Baroness Lookout
6:00 Wet landing with sandals
7:00 Back on Board
7:15 Breakfast

Post Office Bay
8:30 Wet landing – Sandals, post cards, no yellow clothes due to wasps, snorkeling
10:30 Back on board 

Devil’s Crown
11:00 Snorkeling off of the dinghy
12:00 Back on board
12:15 Lunch

Cormorat’s Point
13:00 Wet landing, sandals, green beach
14:00 Back on board – Sail to Puerto Ayora
19:00 Briefing and then dinner

Anchors ahoy, matey! With the anchor noises starting early on, it is difficult to sleep soundly past 4am, for me anyway. We left our last destination at 8:30pm last night, arriving at the new one by 4am.  Couldn’t they have left later and arrived later, I ask you? Apparently, there were never any indigenous people on any of the Galapagos Islands. The point of this stop for those of us who wanted to get up early and be ready to leave the boat by 6am, was to view the sunrise from Baroness Lookout.

As the story goes, the first to arrive to settle on this island was a German who sent for his wife once he decided to stay; he was followed by another German family and eventually by an Austrian Baroness. Long story short, the first two German families got on quite well, but the Baroness held a grudge when the German doctor would not care for her during a pregnancy. That ended any camaraderie and started the competition for the newly mushrooming tourism trade; each family built a lookout to spot the boats as they approached so they could be first in the harbor to greet them. The Baroness had the edge as she built a hotel close to the harbor, while the others had their accommodations further inland. When they spotted a boat, it took them longer to get to the boats’ passengers.

Once on land, we walked up a rocky hill without cutout steps like mountain goats to the base of the lookout. There were wooden steps up to this non-descript lookout tower that didn’t even offer a spectacular view this morning. Sun was hiding behind his friends the clouds and refused to show his face thwarting one of our objectives for being there in the first place. Ron made an interesting observation that passed me by entirely. On this entire yacht with both passengers and crew, we are the only native English speakers, yet the entire tour is in English. It really seemed so natural until he mentioned it, then it really struck me as unusual.

Back on the ship, we had a great breakfast of cheese omelets with fresh fruit, before going ashore once more. More interesting than the lookout was Post Office Bay. Started centuries ago, there is a wooden box that resembles an oversized birdhouse. There people left postcards for loved ones when they could not get to a real post office. The next people to come along, would check to see if there was any mail for the country they were going to and they would take it to pass on to the rightful recipient. For those of us wishing to, we were to bring postcards to ‘mail’ by leaving them here. We as a group scanned about 250 postcards to see which were destined for the country we were returning to and then asked to deliver them in some way. There were two from Hungary, one in Budapest. We took them and will get them delivered to the person waiting for them. 

While on the same island, those who chose to went snorkeling from the beach. Neither of us chose to. After everyone returned, another ship had come in. Their crew and our crew were going to play a soccer match for an hour and a half. Most of our crew only gets one day off every 7 days; others only get one day off every fourteen days. Some of the younger men joined the crew and played. Our team won 2-1.

After coming back on board, most of the group were readying for another go at snorkeling; this time around Devil’s Crown, but we stayed on board. I borrowed a bucket and washed some clothes. We have not had hot water for 2 days, because of a broken pipe, so the cold water wash worked fine. Hanging the shirts and pants on the clothes line on the upper deck, the wind is so fierce; there was a need for half a dozen clothespins for each item. However, the humidity is high, so they are not drying as fast as I thought they would.

Lunch was served. For me and two others, there was a stuffed pepper. The others had fish. There were also potatoes and salad. Different dishes are loaded with cheese, tasty, but binding. For dessert today, all the others received a baked apple dripping in syrup. Rather than having to say “No, thank you!” yet again, the server placed a whole pear standing on end on a plate. At the top was a small slice from the bottom and held into place with a toothpick to simulate a hat. The side of the pear had eyes, nose and mouth cut out with bits of green colored pineapple to make a silly face. Quite accommodating!

We are sailing now on our way to Cormorat’s Point. There we had another wet landing on a lovely beach. The sands here are so fine, they seem like they could dissolve in hot water like sugar crystals. Following a trail, Omar explained different things along the way. Most of these tidbits of knowledge are lost ten minutes after they pour from his mouth, mostly because while he is talking we notice a new bird or see a colorful iguana that captures our attention at the moment.

A lovely trail provided some aerobic excise using stepping skills on more rocks, to finally following the curvy path down to Green Beach, so aptly named because 1 in 5,460 specks of sand are green like little emeralds. How they ever discovered this far-fetched fact is beyond my imagination at the moment. The saving grace other than another glorious view was the sea turtles on the beach. Some were relaxing after having nested with their eggs, while others were doing the nasty deed in the water without any regard to fifteen pairs of eyes watching their doing the sexual acrobatics. 

Our sailing to the next point will take 4 ½ hours. It is very choppy, so the ride is a rough one. Trying to nap to make up for lost nighttime sleep is another failure as the door curtain blows open letting the light peak in. Putting a towel over it only works for a short while until the sway of the boat untangles it from the curtain rod sending it to the floor. 

Dinner was wonderful lasagna with a brown sauce. It was excellent to the point that the two Italians at our table delighted over it as well. The problem with buffet meals is that it is difficult for me to be moderate at times. My dessert tonight was some fruit I had never had sliced in half and made into a mouse using the stem as the tail. Another little flourish. 


Tomorrow, all of the Finns and the two Danes will leave. They only signed up for the five day trip. We have shared our dinner table with the Danes and the Italians. We will miss them especially. We have enjoyed everyone on board, passengers and crew alike.

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Friday, January 04, 2013

South Plazas and Santa Fe Islands

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South Plazas Island
6:30 Breakfast
7:15 Dry Landing – 
closed shoes, rocky trail, hybrid iguanas
9:45 Back on boat > sailing

Santa Fe Island
12:00 Lunch
1:30 Snorkeling
3:00 Back on board
3:30 Wet landing – closed shoes, rocky trail, Giant cactus forest, land iguana expedition 
5:30 Back on board
6:30 Dinner
Briefing for tomorrow

Waking at 6 am to get ready for breakfast was a no-brainer. At 4:30, we could hear the anchor being lowered; it is right near our room. Asking others, it was just as apparent for them as they have lower berths. The chains passing by on the way to the sea have nothing on the ghostly rattling of chains sounds in a haunted house.  

Meals are buffet style. Breakfast held choices for fried eggs, bread, pineapple, cantaloupe, and two types of cereals to gear us up for the day. Buffets can mean trouble, but it looks like this crowd is well aware that everyone needs to get through the line before returning for seconds. 

 Our dry landing meant that we were to take the dinghy from the boat, but land at a dock once at the island. As soon as we approached, it was apparent that some sea lions were using the dock for sunning themselves causing us to share the space. Sea lions are ubiquitous and this being a government park the rules are to stay 6 feet away whenever possible. On the rocks are red crabs with blue backs; the contrast is quite beautiful. Large cacti in numerous configurations spread out over the landscape like an old western movie, but they are accompanied by a low growing plant called something like carpet wheat. We were not sure if the guide was saying carpet or copper. Regardless, in the rainy season, it turns green, letting the land iguanas know their meal has been served; it is filled with water. During the dry season, the red color shows there is no moisture so don’t bother to nibble. 

We were given a number of lessons regarding the different types of rocks on the island including their formation, none of which I care to repeat here mostly because I could not take notes, so don’t remember. As we were seeing different birds and having them identified, my camera batteries had given out. I had bought 2 sets of 4 Eveready batteries in Otavalo and had them with me in case. None of them worked after multiple attempts, making me furiously fretting over the Kodak moments that were passing me by never to be captured again. Just by pure chance, I put my rechargeable batteries in once again; though I knew that I had already really squeezed the juice out of them. It worked just as we spotted our first Blue Footed Booby and I was able to shoot him amicably. 

Dozens of land iguanas posed for our cameras; here they are the brown or golden colored ones in the pictures. The marine iguanas are black and dive into the sea for their food, then climb the rocking walls to return to shore. Marine iguanas are smaller than their land cousins, living only about 40 years, where the others have a lifespan of 50-60 if no hawk makes lunch of them. We were told we would see marine iguanas on another island on another day.

On our return to the dinghy, I was able to capture a baby seal nursing from its mother. They were right on the dock, making it easier and both appreciated that the capture was on the camera only. This was the end of the morning’s excursion, back to the boat we went.

The afternoon snorkeling was a disaster for me. We were taken by dinghy out a ways and dropped into the water to return to the shore. Because we cannot all fit on the dinghy, it was returning for the rest, returning with a ladder to climb back into the dinghy if anyone became tired. After about ten minutes, Ron was tired and signaled for the dinghy before its round trip for the ladder. This panicked me, worried about him and then I could not breathe. From that point on, I had difficulty breathing with the snorkel; forty plus years of smoking taking their toll. They had to drag me onto the boat like an oversized tuna. Captain Ahab had it easier. Humiliation set in. Thankfully, there was a young Finn guy who did not snorkel at all, because he was not a good swimmer, so I had company when Ron jumped back in the water. 

This afternoon, we had a great outing on trails where there were dozens of sea lions, land iguanas of a different variety than we saw in the morning, and lots of birds. The cactus on this island grows like big trees, to keep the iguanas from eating its spiny pads until they fall to the ground. If there were turtles on the island, the pads would be even higher since turtles can climb on their back legs and stretch their necks to reach farther. I was able to get some fun videos of the sea lions here and great pictures of pelicans. 

As we were getting ready to leave the island, Ron spotted a guy that was at Hostel Joshua with us in Guayaquil. Ron said he was on the same plane with us, but I don’t recall seeing him.

Dinner was pizza, cabbage salad, zucchini in a sauce and chocolate mousse for dessert. When I refused the dessert, he gave me fruit instead. Most of us sat around the lounge on the main deck or the smokers went to the smoking area on the upper deck open to the sky. With the early mornings, the rocking boat, and a sense of peace, we retire much earlier than normal to read and then doze off.


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Monday, January 12, 2009

Reader Comment from Charles

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SWEET !! I admire you for living abroad. I just found your site and it seems real interesting, especially the snorkeling stuff. I have never been to Hungary, or snorkeled Falkland Islands. I'll have to take a trip and add it to my site, www.lovetosnorkel.com. Keep up the great posts. Take care. -Charles

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Wednesday, January 07, 2009

Snorkeling Off Frankland Islands - Sydney

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It was an early morning again as Andrew had to drive us to where the tour bus was going to collect us, a resort with real services. Breakfast here is substantial with four varieties of bread including English muffins, which I have not had in years, fresh fruit salad, yogurts, and cereals. Everyone is up and eating by 7:30, so we are able to chat with the other guests, making it amicable. We waited only ten minutes for the shuttle to gather us up to bring us to the larger bus, but in the end, after we collect ed the others, it turned out the larger bus had already left. Our shuttle would now take us directly to the boat for our tour. About an hour later all of the others were gathered from various hotels. The boat was a hovercraft with comfortable seating. Once underway, they served us coffee and cookies, gave a safety demonstration, and fitted people for snorkel suits. I have snorkeled in the past, but never had to wear a suit to do it. Ron and I both wore wet suits when we took scuba lessons, but never for snorkeling. This determined it would be a non-snorkeling day for me off of Frankland Island. I have this thing about claustrophobia. Having a mask over my face is torture, but I most of the time can rationalize my way through it. I think it goes back to a trauma as a child when I had my tonsils out and they put the mask over my face for the gas. I remember pleading with the doctor to just let me take one more breath before we continued, but he refused to remove the mask. Ever since then, I have had nightmares about drowning or being suffocated. With a suit on and the flippers, I feel really confined, closed in, and definitely claustrophobic. That is why I never finished getting certified in SCUBA, but another reason is that the limitations of peripheral perception makes me paranoid to the point that I have anxiety attacks. It turns out the reason for the skins they wore is because jellyfish don't like them. Well I don't like the skins, I don't like being near to jellyfish, I won't snorkel. Case closed. Ron lost his snorkeling virginity and I stayed on the beach. He had a great time, I did not have a bad time, but damn it was hot. The temperature hovered around 90 degrees, while the humidity was close to the same. Even in the shade, I sweat like a pig on a roasting pit. Taking off on my own down a trail, I did find the other side of the island's weather was fantastic with a great breeze. I stayed there as long as I thought I could get away with without being missed and then headed back again in time for lunch. This island is also home to some of the worlds deadliest spiders, which did not exactly make me feel secure being alone, dying somewhere of a spider bite when no one knew I was gone. One spider is so venomous, its bite kills within three hours. There is no antidote. The island has a protected roped off area where a variety of seabirds are nesting. We were told that we could go up to the ropes, but no further without a fine. However, if we disturbed the birds, they would fly at us to scare us away and we should move back, since making the birds agitated is also worthy of a fine. While I was on the other side, I was also on the other side of then roped off area, watching the birds coming and going. On the beach was a dark brown bird, a different species than any of the others nesting. The white cormorants did not care for this bird being so close to their area, so they started dive bombing it. Instead of the brown bird flying off, each time it was dive bombed, it just ducked. This went on about ten times before it finally flew off. It was hysterical to watch this aviary circus show. After two hours of snorkeling, lunch was served. They put out quite a spread of roasted chicken, prawns, salads, and cold cuts. Beverages were for sale. Following lunch, we did the glass bottom boat adventure. It was like visiting the moon, visually disorienting with beautiful life forms we don't normally know exist. The guide pointed out all of the different varieties of coral and the fish we were being voyeurs to. I was surprised that the colors were not as vibrant as seen in pictures. She explained that they would be brighter if the day were not overcast, but still not as vibrant as we would expect. She went on to say that when they film underwater, they use powerful spotlights for filming, so the light from there highlights the color more and the rest is done with Photoshop. They had to run the glass bottom boat twice to accommodate all of us, so in the meanwhile, we just needed to hang sweating again, but those snorkelers were welcome to jump back into the water. When everyone was done, we had the option of doing an island walking tour so we joined in. Amanda our guide pointed out the different trees that are specific to this area. She fished out two sea cucumbers and had us hold them. They squirt water and then a white creamy substance that cements closed the gills of fish that are trying to eat them. With the glued gills, the fish suffocates and loses interest in the sea cucumber. We also came across a humongous golden orb spider. She said they can get as large as dinner plates and like black widows, eat their mates after mating. The island is a protected reserve, which means there is no fishing, no cutting plants, and nothing, not the smallest piece of coral, nor any sand can be removed without a stiff penalty. An hour ride on the boat and then 1 ½ hours on two buses, got us back to our 'hotel'. The other guests came back wiped out also from their tour, so all five of us decided to order in, having it delivered. Andrew arranged the whole thing. After speaking to the others, two Argentinians and one Brit, it seems we made a wise decision. They had a longer boat ride that was not scenic and they had less time snorkeling. They also had to snorkel from the boat, there was no island to rest on in between dives, so they tired out long before the people in our group would have being able to come and go. Tomorrow we want to see if there really is a city of Cairns or if there is just a grandiose number of suburbs. It will be tricky since the public transport in this area is feeble to say the least. We will have to stand on the side yard of someone's property and flag the bus as it comes around the corner. Earlier this evening, a frog made an appearance. Did a take on the situation and then decided he did not like our company and hopped off elsewhere. But as I write this, I am sitting at the large wooden table on the covered patio of the resort, watching the breeze sway the palm tree leaves. On the table there is a good sized marble block where the hosts put out the jams and jellies for breakfast. It sits on little legs, giving some room underneath. As I am typing, I am aware of a little face staring out at me. There is a tiny, tiny gecko poking his head out at me, it runs out for a quick fix of the situation, and then back it goes under the security of the marble. Arched high ceilings of the patio are covered with this little fella's relatives. They are keeping the mosquito population down, but I wish they would eat faster, there are more than enough for everyone. We have to cover ourselves with repellent creating a second skin of lotion or we are bound to be a human buffet table for the flying creatures. All of us have a half dozen bites. The mosquitoes must have silencers on them. Not one of us has heard one yet. The only evidence they are around is when we have an itch and notice the swelling red lumps. All of this is to be expected since this property butts up against a protected rain forest. There is literally a wire fence at the perimeter of the property in back to keep crocodiles out of their yard and pool. After the day's heat, it is refreshing to be able to come back and take a dip in the pool at any time day or night. Like the moss that grows on the sides of trees, I am beginning to lichen this place.

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