Showing posts with label Mike. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mike. Show all posts

Saturday, January 24, 2015

18 Miles Spanning Multiple Cultural Events

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We have an amazing social calendar for not even living here. Friday's agenda: lunch with Pattie and a Mozart concert with Mike.

Our neighbor Pattie, from one floor below, had invited us to join her for lunch at a restaurant called Good Affinity. It is a vegetarian restaurant and quite a ways from the city center. It sounded like an adventure, so we agreed to meet her there as she was going food shopping first. 

We decided to walk to the restaurant not realizing how far it actually was. Ron also wanted to test the theory that where we would be moving was only 20 minutes away. The day was clear and crisp, but we learned to pack umbrellas just in case.

By the time 20 minutes had passed, we were nowhere near the restaurant and our next home is beyond this. Along the way, we did pass a group of older ladies, one being a Gringo, who stopped us to offer an invitation for a gallery opening that evening. Scheduled for 7pm, we were already committed to a Mozart concert at 8pm, but we asked if we could attend another time. The Gringo lady said it was worth a visit just to see the inside of the building; it was a converted stable, which she claimed was gorgeous. Assuring her we would return, we continued on our way. This was 15 minutes to deduct from the total walking time. 

En route, we came across a wine shop of a good size, so we stopped to see if they might carry the Chilean wine our host Barbara left for us. A quick scan of the shelves created more disappointment, but less weight to carry along the journey. Deduct another 10 minutes from the total walking time. 

Spotting Good Affinity, we were an hour early, so Ron wanted to continue to our new digs. We walked and walked and walked some more, but we still were not there. We walked for an hour and a half, but still did not find the apartment. Okay, deduct the two stopovers, but we still have an hour left. 

Deciding we needed to head back to the restaurant or be late for meeting Pattie, we turned to go. Ron kept asking people directions as we changed direction. We over walked the location of the apartment by about one mile.

Asians own and run Good Affinity, a semi-buffet style. The meal of the day includes rice, four choices of the six offerings, a bowl of soup, and a drink all for $2.75. Can you beat this? I nixed the rice, but did say yes to the mixed cauliflower and broccoli, eggplant, a corn fritter, and cucumber salad. They offered lemonade without sugar and the soup was non-distinct, but was delicious. 

Pattie was good company, cheerful and full of interesting stories of their living abroad adventures. She really is a wealth of information. Lunch was a total delight. Pattie gave us directions on how to use the bus from where we were, so we did not have hike back again.

The bus ride costs 25¢ each. It would have been 12¢ for Ron if he had an Ecuadorian residency. It was an experience zipping around curves as if we were in a racecar. Within 15 minutes, we made it to a downtown area we recognized. The plan was to go food shopping, but getting a coffee first became the first priority. We tried finding a café suggested by our next host, but directions being imprecise, we never found it. Finally, settling for a little coffee roaster café, we thought we were on track. Surprise, the coffee was undrinkable. 

Passing the old basilica hundreds of times the last time we were in Cuenca, it was never open, so we could not see it. Today, we still had some energy for one museum. An
admission charge of $1 helps the restoration efforts. At first glance at the altar, I thought we were disturbing some ceremony. Up ahead were 13 men sitting in a semi-circle. Impressive for sure! Though beautifully fitted, it is apparent some of the frescoes are still in need of repair. Beyond the main church, there is another room with an unknown use. There are outdoor areas with old photos that are lovely to survey. Well worthy of the price of admission just for the artwork.

I have long admired the architecture of an old municipal building we have walked past dozens of times, but never took pictures. As tired as I was, I could resist no longer. Then Ron noticed this was where they were displaying the artwork of a
Tomás Galindo Artist
painter we had read about. When at the Modern Art Museum, we found posters for this display, but the venue did not resonate. Being drawn in, we were pleasantly refreshed with the vibrant colors and wonderful choices of models. The artist is Tomás Galindo.
 

Now too exhausted to shop, we returned home. Mike was joining us for the Mozart Concert tonight, so we wanted to rest a bit, get some dinner and be ready to meet him at 7pm. Initially, we intended to walk to the auditorium about a mile away. 

When it was time to leave, it was again raining relentlessly. All three of us had umbrellas, but they were ineffective for our lower bodies; the rain hit the ground and then ricocheted back up. Standing across the street from the apartment, we attempted to get a taxi. The rule of thumb here is that when the rain comes, finding an empty taxi is as easy as finding an arrowhead in the ocean. 

After 15 minutes of trying, Mike suggested we walk toward the basilica where our chances may be better. Finding the ideal corner for a taxi that would be heading in the direction we wanted to go, we stood. Pouring rain almost overwhelmed our umbrellas. Just as we were about to call it quits and go home, a taxi stopped right in front of us to drop off a fare. LUCK!

The Orquesta Sinfónica de Cuenca performed the Noche de
Mozart concert in Teatro Pumapungo. It was free! The program included Don Giovanni and three others. Violin music was never appealing to me, but Xavier Mora, a soloist, performed beautifully. 

Later, there was a quartet comprised of an oboe, clarinet, French horn, and bassoon. However, in Spanish they are oboe, clarinete, corno, and fagot. Performers are clarinetista, cornista, oboist, and fagotista. Strangely, all soloists were men, but the names in Spanish for performers are all feminine. Regardless of monikers, the music they performed was magical. Times like this make me wish I had continued with the clarinet.

By the time the concert was over, the rain had stopped. It was really a delightful evening and even more special being able to share it with Mike. We walked home and on the way ran into Curt. He was out with some friends and Scott was resting at home. 

When we reached home again, I checked my pedometer. We covered 18 miles today.

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Friday, January 23, 2015

Two Near Misses, But Total Hits

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Ceiling and cornice
 When planned this extended stay it was to be an experiment to see what living here would be like; it has almost turned into our general tourist rush with a few differences. Each morning, Ron has taken on kitchen duty to make a delicious breakfast that we sit and eat together. Generally, in Budapest, we are up at different times and have breakfast separately. He eats at his computer in the kitchen; generally, I am up earlier and have eaten mine while reading the news on the tablet. Then I have already migrated to my computer. 

Breakfast here aside from free-range eggs and bacon includes avocado, papaya, and mango. On some days, local cheese is mixed with the eggs, but most times not. I love all the differences here.

On Wednesday, after trying to prognosticate the weather, we headed down to Calle Larga where a two museum happen to be, but we have ignored until now. Cattycorner from Gozo, there is the Casa Museo Remigio Crespo Toral. As interesting as the building is from the outside, it has not managed to draw inside until this day. Admission is free. It is the home of the Cuencano Remigio Crespo Toral, a lawyer and author. He lived here with his wife with whom he had 10 children. Associated with the University of Cuenca in various authoritative positions, President Alfredo Baquerizo Moreno named him as “National Poet” in 1917.

As a rule, I am not overwhelmed with visiting peoples’ homes, but this was an exception. Each room still with period pieces had a tasteful elegance due to its simplicity. Not being overly decorated bordering on being pretentious this was a major exception. Each room had objects to be admired, wallpaper to be inspired by, and ceilings that were works of art. The staircase was particularly interesting as there are two staircases at the ground floor, but they meet at one landing to continue as a single unit to the next floor. There in one room is a research library. Two employees, one guard and one librarian are the only staff.

Walking down the Calle Larga there sits another museum, we have ignored during our visit here two years ago. It is the
Venus in South America?
Museo de las Culturas Aborigenes. Again wanting to delay what we perceived would be disappointment, we went for a coffee first at our coffee roaster and café spot. 


Returning to the museum, one does not get an objective opinion from the outside. Nearby are cheap souvenir stores, which taint the tiny opening to this establishment. However, with the goal to immerse ourselves in the local culture, we pressed forward. The $4 entrance fee took me aback mainly because so many of the museums were free. As reasonable as it would be in other cities, here it seemed unreasonable at the start. 

The door was locked, but the attendant came to let us in and collect our fees. She handed each of us a comprehensive self-guided tour book that was informative without requiring an overpowering amount of reading. She directed us up a staircase.
Fantastic pottery, some with real humor
With the first glance, we realized this was worthy of a $4 admission. The specimens were spectacular, incredible, and clean. So many times, we have gone to museums such as this and there is enough dust to believe it dated back to the prehistoric times too. Each section of what was once a huge room was broken into sections or ‘rooms’. The guide explained what we would see in each ‘room’ as well has including drawings of some the specimens to make it more comprehensive with examples. Within these sections, you have the opportunity to gaze at more than 5000 archaeological pieces. These are sample pieces from more than 20 pre-Hispanic Ecuadorian cultures dating as far back as 15,000 years.

We spent more than 2 ½ hours here, studying, photographing, and attempting to soak in the knowledge while being awed at every turn. What must be the best-kept secret in Cuenca is the gift shop. With an extensive assortment of high quality souvenirs, their prices are incredibly reasonable. If we lived here, I would shop here for culture-based decorations.

Later that evening we planned to have dinner at Howard and Mike’s for dinner. Their apartment is two floors below ours. They included two friends of theirs, Curt and Scott. Without a pregnant pause, Curt and Scott had us feeling like we had known them for years. Conversation among all six of us flowed as if we had picked up where we left off the last time, but of course, we had not.

Dinner was a real treat and though I will not remember all of it, the main course was a wonderful chicken with scrumptious spices. Side dishes included a quinoa salad, cucumber salad, beans, broccoli and cauliflower, and new potatoes. Scott and Curt brought homemade coconut ice cream and brownies. Being off all sugar and flours for more than two months, I let myself go with the dessert and cherished every mouthful.

My only regret is not taking some photos of dinner. The entire evening was incredibly special and we felt honored to be included.

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Saturday, April 07, 2007

Den Hague

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Ron and I were taking the train to Den Hague for the day. At 11:00, we were meeting Germine, a Dutch doctor who we had met on our trip to Africa this last January. She is a sweet and kind person and was thrilled to be able to see us again. The feelings were mutual. We met at a restaurant of her suggestion, though we found out that she had never eaten there before. She had only been in Den Hague for six months doing her residency at the local hospital. Ron and I were immediately drawn to the Dutch pancake, so we both ordered the same thing. We were in for a treat and a surprise when it arrived. There must have been 1/2 pound of bacon on this thin, delectable crepe like pancake. The syrup was also different from our expectations and I immediately put it on our shopping list to bring back to Hungary.

We lazed our way through this brunch talking and refreshing our memories of our Africa trip, the plans for Easter Sunday tomorrow and how Germine will celebrate with her family, and our plans for the rest of our vacation. By 1:00, our friends Audrey, Mike, and their son Oskar arrived for our planned get-toget
her for the rest of the afternoon. The Debjie family were the consummate tour guides taking us to the beach town close to Den Hague, where strolled the boardwalk, reminding me of my childhood at the New Jersey shore. Oskar was enjoying the fresh air and then the inflated oversized mats and castles that they have for children to romp and jump on. The charge was three Euros for 30 minutes and the attendant, an older woman was not the most gracious. She writes the time the child enters on their hand and must have a stop watch to keep track of them. At exactly 30 minutes, she was interrupting Oskar's jubilant bouncing and corralling him to leave the area or shell over another three coins.

The weather was perfect, so settled ourselves at an outdoor cafe, where the three
Debjies had Dutch pancakes similar to our tasty morsels earlier that morning. Ron and I were still on full, so we only had coffee.

When we were leaving, we walked through the lobby of a hotel that was once a historic building. Audrey, who has been studying Dutch was able to translate the plague on
the wall, but the memory of what she shared has long since slipped from my memory.

Having lived in The Netherlands for going on six years now, Audrey has learned quite
a bit of Dutch, and the culture in which she lives. As we rode the trams around the city, we explored neighborhoods with wonderful architecture that I had never discovered on my own during previous trips. We were so fortunate to have 'locals' to show us around.

On the way back to their apartment, we stopped at a grocery store; I had to buy some pancake syrup and Dutch licorice, which is so different from American. I especially like the salty type.

Back at their apartment, we had tea and typical Dutch cookies and pastry, which definitely tickled my sweet tooth with greater furor than the Hungarian varieties. We then took our leave and they walked us to the tram that would deposit is at the train station. It was a wonderful afternoon shared with warm and kind people. They are the ones who introduced us to the game Apples to Apples, which has become Ron's Friday night social staple game of choice. I don't hold a grudge against them for it, though.

When we returned to Amsterdam, we tried contacting Chris and Mark, but could not connect, so Ron and I went to dinner alone. They were going to go to Rotterdam for the day to visit some of Chris's old hang-outs. He spend a semester of college studying there and had many memories. Ron and I walked the streets some to enjoy the people and then went to bed early to read.

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