Showing posts with label Latvia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Latvia. Show all posts

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Three Museum Sunday

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Gaining an hour by setting the clocks back last night, put some extra energy in our step. We thought we would get in to see the Lutheran churches today thinking they would be free for services. All of the Lutheran churches charge to enter even to just view them calling it "Helping our mission"; alternatively the Catholic churches let you in for free. How is that for a turnabout? No such luck though with the Lutherans. We must have tourist pouring out of us. Even the Lutheran service in English, which we were twenty minutes late for, wanted to charge us an entry fee. God is a mercenary or hires them. 


After church checking, we went to the Museum of Decorative and Applied Arts. We by-passed the special exhibition of fashion, choosing the permanent collections. On the third floor, I was in heaven. It was primarily fiber art: weavings, some leather work, some ceramics, but it is the weaving that I could spend hours looking at. I love examining the weft and warp, wondering what techniques the weaver used. 


The next stop was the Sun Museum. It all started with one  little sun necklace bought by the museum owner while in Portugal. She decided that since the sunshine is in short  supply in this country, she would collect it from other places and bring it home with her. Soon her collection of suns increased as her job took her to different countries. Friends noticing the collection added to it. Finally, she had no space left in her apartment for added pieces to her collection. This gave her the idea to open what she believes is the only Sun Museum in the world. Displaying suns in all their forms, from clocks to religious symbols, each is carefully labeled as to which country it has arrived from. What is sadly lacking are suns from any of the Latin American countries except Mexico


At the end of the tour, yes, the young docent Daina gives a thorough explanation of many of the suns, but she then sends you down to the craft room. Given a choice of three ceramic suns, you choose one and then decorate it with tempera paints; they dry quickly. For thirty minutes or more regardless of your age, you are transformed into a child once again concentrating on the work at hand. Ron wanted to leave them behind, but secretly I was afraid we would have to show Daina our work before leaving so played it safe by keeping them. 


We did this in the incorrect order. Our last museum was the Museum of the Occupation. This follows the occupation of Latvia through the years 1940-1991 when they were controlled by the Soviets and the Germans. The exhibits were enthralling, causing us to read 90% of everything the museum provided before sensory overload set in and caused us to end it. This museum runs on donations only. As we were leaving, Ron asked the young man working there what the population of Latvia was now. It is 2.2 million, with 700,000 living in Riga. During the highlighted period of the museum's mission the country lost 1/3 of their population to kidnapping, deportation, death for minor crimes, and as war victims. Imagine, this entire country has the population of Houston, Texas. Incredible!!


This called for some walking around to clear our mental palates. Once we shed some of that emotional baggage, but not forgetting the horrors man can deliver to man, we ventured back to the hotel. I blogged, Ron read. We decided on dinner. 


Strange as it may seem, we had our fill of Latvian food, so went for Japanese tempura. I know tourists to Budapest come with a gung-ho attitude of trying everything Hungarian, but fizzle out after 3-4 days. Same here. After a nice dinner in an empty restaurant, we wandered toward the hotel, but a coffee seemed in order. There is a clear tent in one of the squares that has a restaurant and live entertainment. We went there, because they had heat lamps, but the music turned out to be great also. 


Jack-o'-lantern on HalloweenImage via WikipediaAs we traipsed back, Ron was anxious to find people in costume since it is Halloween. Though we were told it is not a holiday here, some clubs may be holding parties. It is curious that we have seen so many pumpkins carved into Jack-o-Lanterns, yet they have not incorporated the other customs. Maybe that will change with time; we did see some youth with half-hearted costumes and face make-up. I miss Halloween the most of all holidays.

Tomorrow it is home again and back to my kids come Tuesday.
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Friday, October 29, 2010

Walk, Walk, Walk, Out of the Old City

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About the best thing going for this hotel is the breakfast. The shower is so small, I had to step out of it to readjust the water temperature. They give you liquid soap, because if you should drop bar soap, you would need the fire department to come rescue you after bending over to try to retrieve it. It is so small they had to shrink the water drops coming from the shower head in order to fit the stall. So this makes breakfast all the more special. Not only is the breakfast rooms airy with room to spread out, the buffet goes on for tables and tables of choices.
We went for breakfast early, but then we had plenty of time to waste until we met up with the tour guide for the 'free' walking tour. We putzed around going into this church and that one. Most of the churches in the old city are Lutheran. If you have ever been in a Lutheran church, you know that Luther stripped them bare. There is hardly any decor inside, so it hardly makes it worth venturing in at all. Well, yea, you could pray there, but that is not a touristy thing to do.

Finally, at noon, we were waiting at the meeting spot for the tour. Tour guides of all sorts are roaming the streets like turkey hawks looking for a carcass to chew on. Of course, they charge anywhere from 10 to 20 lats a person. Angeles, our young guide who said his name was the same as the city, but without the Los. He works for tips only, was a welcomed sight. It was only Ron and I and two recently graduated high school students who were doing volunteer work in Lithuania. Angeles immediately told us he was not touring us through the old city, but beyond, where most tours never take you. We were dubious at first, but Angeles proved himself to be smarter in this regard than we were.

He took us over the market halls; there are four of them side by side. They were built and used by the Germans during WWI, for storing zeppelins. Afterward, they converted them to the food halls of today. Each one is dedicated to one form of food: fruits and vegetables, only meat only, another for (phew!) fish, and the last is for cheese and dairy products. We went to some sleazy areas in the city where they buy and sell everything and anything. We were shown Stalin's birthday cake, an ornate building that was converted to a science university, but is now offices and underutilized.  We did a short visit to the Jewish area, where a synagogue was burned to the ground by the Nazis, but only after they had it filled with Jews. Right next to it is a memorial to all who aided the Jews in some way. 

Angeles was a disillusioned university student. He was studying navigation and journalism, but could not take the university any longer and quit. He is in the process of searching what is next for him. In the meanwhile, he pointed out interesting and fascinating sites we would never have found on our own. Nothing that Ron had read about Riga even suggested much of anything outside of the old town area. Angeles has perfect English. He told us that it is now mandatory from first grade, but when he was in school, it only started in 3rd grade. In the 6th grade, students have to take a second foreign language. 

The tour was scheduled to last 2 hours fifteen minutes, but in reality lasted an extra half hour longer. One of the highlights was the touring of the art nouveau architecture. When our time finally ran thin, Angeles pointed out pockets of the city to see more. After our good byes, we went exploring more architecture on our own. This city is abundantly rich with fabulous styles. I cannot wait to see my pictures.

Angeles had recommended a restaurant for dinner, so we went there. One Latvian specialty is peas cooked with bacon in milk. Ron tried it for an appetizer in spite of Trip Advisor reviews giving it thumbs down. I don't think they are really peas in the sense of what we know as peas, but shaped like them. These were mostly brown and chewy, though not undercooked. I had sauerkraut, which I was looking forward to, but it was served cold. That was disappointing. Walking back to the hotel, again, the streets were empty. 
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Thursday, October 28, 2010

Off to Riga We Go

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For those of you who are geographically challenged, Riga is the capitol of Latvia. Latvia is in the Baltics, a former country of the Soviet Union. There was some concern last night due to the screw up with the incorrect LOT Airlines booking to Vilnius, Lithuania that when we arrived at the airport, they would say they canceled our correct flight to Riga. However, all went without a hitch. First to Warsaw, and then on to Riga after a plane change.  

There was a bit of a shock when I was preparing the currency cheat sheet. One euro is equal to .75 santīmi. There are 100 santīmi in one Latvian Lat. So the euro is not reigning king here. It takes over 1.33 euro to equal 1 Lat. That was not good news for our economic planning.  In addition, Riga was colder than expected, with weather reports showing only 2 degrees difference with Budapest. Yikes, the difference 2 degrees can make. It was raining too, making it feel even colder. 

On the bright news, they have a bus that dropped us off one block from our hotel for only 2 euros. Our hotel, the Old Riga Palace is in the old city, convenient for touring the old city, where Ron's research led him to believe we would want to stay. Others who have been here have said there is not much to see outside of the old city.
The room has a misnomer being called a 'double', usually meaning there is a double sized bed. However, the rest of the room could be called compact. There is barely room to walk past the foot of the bed to get to the other side where the desk is. Once there, room is barely sufficient for pulling out the chair to sit at it. 


Regardless of the rain, we self-toured the old city by first visiting the tourism office for orientation. I have learned to sit back and let Ron have at it. By the time he leaves, the tour person's head is spinning like in exorcist movie. He has enough questions in his parcel are enough to keep three staff members busy for hours. 

Where are all of the people? Sure, it may be cold and tourists are not flocking here, but where are the residents? The streets are empty. Yes, there are people in coffee shops, few, really few in restaurants, but on the street, no one.The architecture is amazing. The building that the tourism office is in is like something out of a fairytale. If I had remembered the cord to download pictures from my camera, I could show you now, but you will have to wait. It is worth waiting for.

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Monday, October 25, 2010

Another One Cancels Out

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It looks like I may be doing the next Creativity Group myself. The scheduled speaker just canceled today. She had forgotten her kids were on fall break. This is getting to be a greater strain than I had planned. We leave Thursday for Riga, so at least I will have a chance to 'chill' before then. We are on break this week.




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Sunday, September 12, 2010

I Thank You A LOT Polish Airline You Part 1

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The trip to Ireland made me realize that one of the joys of living here, beside loving my students, is the easy access to other countries. We have been wanting to see Vilnius, Lithuania and Riga, Latvia for years now. With half of my fall break booked with guests, I took the matter in hand to book us tickets for the rest of that week.

On September 2nd, I was hunting down tickets on the various sites with numerous options. This is like venturing into extreme sports.You know you have to be ready for battle; there may be scarring in the process. Little did I realize that the scarring was going to be more like a branding iron.

I found a fare, not so budget, but those choices from here are fewer than ever before. LOT Polish Airlines had flights for $573. to Vilnius for both of us. Most of the other choices involved an overnight stay in Frankfurt, Prague, or Warsaw. Connections between these two capital cities really bites. I was about to book the tickets, feeling some sense of relief that I would have a short escape from reading papers and theses during October, but company arrived. 

We moved into the kitchen for coffee. I was telling them what we were up to, but had not finished the deal. We discussed Vilnius vs Riga and by the end of the discussion, changed our minds to visiting Riga on the sea instead. While we were chatting their child was in the living room after having over heard half of the discussion. With a proud smile, he returned to the kitchen to tell us he completed the airline transaction for us, since I had left my credit card and frequent flier cards on the desk. I wanted to kill the kid, but for the sake of harmony, I and his family sternly admonished him for using someone's  credit card, especially without permission. The deal was done, the choice made, end of the story. Not quite.

Step 2 was finding a place to stay. I found a place for 50 Euros a night, centrally located, lovely looking, so I put in the dates from the plane reservation. In the right column where it tallies up your total cost for the stay, it showed 400+ Euros. Now I am thinking hey, I am not great at math, but even I know 4 nights times 50 does not equal 400 Euros. Taking a closer look at the dates, it did not ring any bells that the first date was October 21st, not October 28th. What came out of my mouth at that point cannot be repeated here. Not only did we have guests from the 21st to the 28th, but I had a whole week of school to teach. Hmmm...the latter was tempting, but no, couldn't do it. 

I immediately called LOT in Budapest. No help at all. If you book it online, you have to call the online numbers. Back to the Internet. LOT has a great set-up for the FAQ. There is a real woman standing there waiting for you to click on the preset questions and then she dramatically answers them. If it takes you too long to decide, she makes paper airplanes, files her nails, and so on until you require her services. What she does not do is give out phone numbers for help. "Contact us" was basically useless. I did find a number for Poland. Ron called, waiting on hold for twenty minutes before trying both the British and the US numbers. Different numbers, same results.

Plan B: Call my credit card and explain what happened. Within 3 hours of the reservation being made, I called the dispute line, explained the situation and the gentleman pleasantly stated that they would deny the charge when it came through. Thanking him, I also share that he saved the life of a young boy who otherwise may have ended up on death row.

One last problem, we still wanted airline tickets, but to Riga. Search, search, search. LOT Polish Airlines still has the best connections with the best rates. Book the tickets with my AMEX card this time. The Mastercard has a US address, but the AMEX has my Budapest address. It takes 3 days before the airlines will put through charges even though they send confirmations stating that the ticket is solid. For three days, I monitored both of these, but each was showing confirmed reservations with confirmed seat selections. One more day, one more day...but then I forgot about it.
To be continued...
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Friday, September 03, 2010

Happy Anniversary to Us

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Happy anniversary to us! Today is our 17 year anniversary. 
For those who in 1993 said "You two will never last" we have proved you wrong by yet another year.
What are we doing to celebrate? We are going to Riga, Latvia for five days in October during my fall break.

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Tuesday, May 04, 2010

Redefining "Budget"

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Budget: A financial plan to manage the spending and saving of money. 
Achieved with a relatively small financial outlay. 

It seems that a segment of the airline industry has taken it upon themselves to rewrite dictionary definitions, because the once Budget airlines no longer fit into the definition of budget. Only a few years ago, we were able to fly from Budapest to Geneva for 35 Euros each way per person, inclusive of all fees. We went to Milan for 29 Euros. Those were the days my friend, we thought they would never end...  But they did end. **Side note below.

Budapest went from a heyday of over twenty budget airlines  making cities throughout Europe as appealing as choosing chocolates in a truffle shop and almost as inexpensive. Europe was our playground and we savored the moments.

I was hoping for a new adventure this summer, especially since the last summer I spent researching my book, not getting me beyond the Hungarian borders. We have been wanting to visit Riga, Latvia and Vilnius, Lithuania for some time. We have been to Tallinn and found it delightful.

Hunting through, there is only one "budget" airline that flies from Budapest to either Riga or Vilnius: Air Baltic.
No matter how far in advance I tried, this was the result.

Budapest to Riga
Fare - 386 euros (Not forints or dollars mind you)
Taxes - 389.86 euros
Transaction fee - 40 euros (what is this?)
Total for 2 people - 815.86 euros or $1076.94 or 219,938 forints

Budapest to Vilnius was a bargain after Riga.
Fare - 352 euros
Taxes - 313.54 euros
Transaction fee - 40 euros (what is this?)
Total for 2 people - 705.54 euros or $931.02 or 190,196 forints

These fees do not take into consideration that starting this summer, most including transcontinental airlines are going to charge for all checked baggage as well as carry-on. They should be paying us baggage handler's salary for doing the work ourselves.

Let's see, a train ticket to Eger is 15 Euros for me and Ron rides free. Hmmm...perhaps staying within the borders is not a bad idea after all.


**I would have sworn this was song was popularized by Judy Collins, but when I looked it up, it was actually a group called the Limeliters and their vocalist Mary Hopkin
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Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Visa Free to the US

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The citizens of seven countries, including Hungary, will no longer need visas to travel to the United States starting on November 17, U.S. Secretary of Homeland Secretary Michael Chertoff said in Prague on Monday.

The Czech Republic, Estonia, Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Slovakia and South Korea will be joining the U.S. visa waiver programme which currently has 27 members, mainly in Western Europe, Chertoff said.

During the initial period, travellers will need to possess a biometric passport for visa-free travel to the U.S., Chertoff added.

Although good news for Hungarians, many have shared with me that they have concerns about their countrymen abusing their status and having the no Visa rule revoked. Time will tell.

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