Cuenca Completo

We covered a lot of territory during our time in Cuenca. In 48 days, we visited just about every cultural or historical place we could fine open. Some places we revisited, while other places we revisited only to try to find them open, but without success.

Churches

New Cathedral (Catedral de la Immaculada)

Del Sagrario Old Basilica

El Carmen de la Asuncion Church 

Todos Los Santos 

Old Cathedral of Cuenca

Iglesia de Santo Domingo St. Dominic’s

San Blas

Others I cannot even remember

Museums

Michael J. Hamilton Photography Exhibit

El Museo de Las Conceptas

Pumapungo Museo

Pumapungo Museum and Arqueological Park - MCYP

The Ruins of Todos Los Santos 

Mirador de Turi

Museo Municipal de Arte Moderno - Twice

Museo de las Culturas Aborigenes

Museo Del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla

Museo de la Medicina

CIDAP Museum - Centro Interamericano de Artesanias y Artes Populares

Galleries and Public Spaces

Artes de la Tierra Galeria

Plaza Civica –

Plaza Abdon Calderon

Casa de las Posadas - Twice

Ceramica Vega
 
What we missed due to their never being open:

Art Cuenca

Casa De los Arcos

Galeria de Arte Contempora neo Ariel Dawi

Prohibido Centro Cultural

Museo de Esqueletologia

Museo de las Artes de Fuego - Tried three times

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What Does a Saint With Wings, Guayacan Blooms and a Guanábana Have in Common?

Thursday was a strange day. We had little to no ambition to do anything, but felt a need to get out and explore something. Finally, we remembered we wanted to see the art exhibition that opened the same night we went to the concert. It was less than a mile away, making it an easy walk.

Wooden flooring

Of course, we are easily distracted so when we passed by Iglesia de Santo Domingo or St. Dominic’s Church and noticed the doors were open, we had to go in. It is funny, curious, not ha! ha! that the The Catholic Directory only lists two Catholic churches in Cuenca when there are 52. That aside, once more, I was blown away by the hand painted beauty of the inside décor.

Painted and plastered walls and ceiling

Since when do saints get wings?

We did make it to the art gallery, which thankfully was open. When we met the artist the night of the show opening, she had told us this building once housed people and their horses. It was like a bed & breakfast & stable (B&BS). In recent times, the city converted it into a municipal art gallery where temporary exhibitions can be presented to the public. Lesser known artists can get their work noticed. There were about 12 artists participating, but when we showed up, it was the security guard and us.

What was unclear to us was that there was one central theme to the show. Every piece of art represented the flower of the guayacan tree; in Loja, Ecuador, there are 100,000 acres of these trees. They bloom shortly after the first rain of the year, but the blooms disappear days later, not resurfacing for 12 more months.

The Gringo Tree newsletter states, “The flowers can grow to be 4 inches wide, and area favorites of honey bees and hummingbirds. The unique flowers are also quite useful in

treating a number of health problems. Teas made from the petals have been used to treat kidney disease, urinary tract infections, and even tuberculosis in various parts of Latin America.” Whether or not we were surprised at over 60 variations of one type of flower or tree, it was a fun thing to do.

Now, we decided to test the bus system. We knew little about the routes, but we did have an idea the 100 route ran close to our place. First, we took it all the way to the end, where we were asked to depart from the bus. All he did was pull into an alley to turn around and come back on the other side. We hopped on again, spending another 50¢ for the two of us. If Ron were a resident, it would only have been 12¢ for him.  We rode for quite some time, before realizing this bus was not going anywhere we wanted to be. At the next stop we got off, which was fortunate. There happened to be a SuperMaxi grocery store within two blocks.

Short on cash and not wanting to use a generic ATM, we asked at SuperMaxi if they took credit cards. They do, so we were set or so we thought. After milling up and down the aisles, we had enough groceries; we knew it would be a taxi going home. I was going to buy a soursop, what they call guanábana. I am all about trying different fruits and vegetables here, but I am not going to try the national dish: guinea pig.

We get to the register; Ron is obviously holding his Visa card in his hand. The young cashier tells us it is $40.29. Ron hands over the card. She asks Ron for his passport. Everyone, ex-pat and locals alike warn you not to carry your passport with you. Ron gives her his Hungarian ID card. This totally flummoxes her. She has to call for backup. All of a sudden that generic ATM is looking better, but I stubbornly wait it out. Hungarian IDs don’t cut it. Ron offers a colored photocopy of his passport. A chorus of sighs of relief was heard all around. This will work and we are out of there.

Taxis are waiting outside the store like great white sharks near fishing boats. Riding home, I am watching the meter cha-ching, cha-ching. We get to our corner saying this is good enough. The fare was $1.75.

During our tea and dessert time, we cut the guanábana. It has a dual texture. The center most part of the fruit has a similar consistency to a banana, while the fruit closed to the skin is closer to an orange. Flavor-wise it is a mixture of banana,

citrus, and I tasted some peach flavor. Ron didn’t care for it as much, but I thought it was a lovely change.

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Scrambled Ramblings

Apparently, we were not alone in thinking the downpour on Saturday was something exceptional. The Gringo Tree, an ex-pat newsletter reported on the damage that the rain caused, including having part of a street cave in, keeping three vehicles hostage. To see the pictures and the rest of the article, click here.

Sunday, the rain returned once again, but Ron braved the elements to attend mass. Staying home, I heard music, particularly cymbals. When I went out on the balcony, there was another parade passing by the cross street. This one included a number of Joseph and Mary dressed adults riding horses, while children dressed as shepherds went by on ponies and one donkey. Following them were flatbed trucks with more religiously costumed people. No one sang Don’t Rain on My Parade as they passed by. 

When the rain stopped, we charged out to get some groceries. As soon as we completed the deed, the skies opened up yet again. This time, both of us had hoods, but still no umbrellas, but we ran between the raindrops to a cozy apartment. Once home, we remembered the main reason for going out was for eggs. We did not put all our eggs in one basket; in fact, there were none.

Monday, we did a bit of laundry. What a treat to have full sized American washing machine and dryer. Our borrowed property owner had them imported. Our clothes have never encountered a dryer before, so we were wary about how well they would get along. Some items refused to be tumbled, so they dried on a hanger.    

One of our delights is the décor in the apartment where we are at now. Barbara, our exchange host is a painter. Gracing the walls are a few of her painting, which we are treasuring. As an artist, she also has great taste in her other artwork. Each day I go around taking in the images on the walls. It is like being in a mini-gallery. 

This prompted us to seek out some of the real galleries to look over art. On the way, we discovered a Spanish place for a quick snack. WE did not pay much attention to the sign outside offering the menu of the day for $3, so we ordered off the menu. When we entered, the place was almost empty, but within 20 minutes, people were sharing tables. Everyone it seemed started with a bowl of soup, then an entrée. Entrées usually always include a potato and rice. It was not until we left that we spotted the sign showing what we could have chosen.

Seeking out art galleries, we found one across the river, Almacén: Artes de la Tierra, but it was closed when we arrived. It was siesta break, so we waited in the back of the complex where we found very accommodating outdoor chairs with protective umbrellas waiting the 30 minutes for the shop to reopen. It was well worth the wait. If we lived here, I would be in financial trouble. The shopkeeper has some wonderful pieces. More than 10 jumped out at us begging to be released from the store.  

Crossing the street, we walked along the river in the opposite direction of where we have walked before hoping there would be another stairway up to the top of the hill. Be careful what you wish for, those steps are murder. 

Within the area, Mercado 10 de Agosto was just a short distance away.  After walking around for a bit checking out the meats and produce, we bought ground beef, sausages, and fruit. After a lot of meandering, we arrived home only to remember we did not buy eggs AGAIN! 

Ron has wanted coca tea, which helps with altitude adjustment. Our lovely Malena had taken us to multiple health food stores, but those that had it only had huge boxes. However, when we came home, there was a package of coca tea bags with a note from our downstairs neighbor, Pattie. She heard we wanted it and left some for us.

We have the positive benefits that one would associate with a commune, but with the privacy of having our own apartment. Feeling the camaraderie here is not something I have experienced in decades. 

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