Showing posts with label Kaikoura. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kaikoura. Show all posts

Sunday, January 02, 2011

One night in Kaikoura is plenty if you are not into extreme sports like dropping from the sky with a parachute and some stranger strapped to your back. They call it tandem skydiving, I call it putting my life in the hands of a stranger. There is also whale watching, seal viewing, and albatross sighting. There is no way I am going to pay NZ$65 per person to look at birds that refuse to come into land. The last albatross that ever needed my attention was in the Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner. After that, I have no regrets that the albatross is no longer hanging from my neck. Whale watching would have been fun, but they return too late and again at NZ$85 per person, do I really need to do this? When I was a kid, whales used to wash up on the shore where we lived. Sure, they were dead, but heck, we did get to see whales up close and personal. Once we had a live seal come to shore too. They never knew how he got that far off course.

With hours to kill, we walked. One of us was in search of caffeine, the other in search of seals. Setting out in a different direction from town, the coffee search was doomed to failure from the start. Passing a restaurant and a hotel, both were refusing service until noon. Walk, walk, walk, lovely view of the ocean, but we found a bench to sit taking in the view. Suddenly, a woman’s voice behind us said “Great view isn’t it?” Just as the response was forming on my lips, I turned to look at the person I was going to address. It was Maggie and her husband. This is the same couple we had dinner with in Rotorua, ran into in Napier, and stumbled into in Wellington before sniffing us out here. All of us were only going to be in town for 24 hours and then on to Christ Church. Small world!

We were not certain if we were taking the bus or the train from here. This causes quite a commotion. Ron had booked the NakedBus, but they don’t stop here. He wasn’t sure if they used another bus company or if we were to get the train again. If it were the latter, we had no tickets; they have not ticket office or train employees at the station. The tourism office said that NakedBus uses Atomic buses, but the hostel said they use the train. Calling NakedBus takes an act of parliament and they charge $1.90 AUS a minute for answering questions that are not clear on their website. Our answers were not on the website. Best to try both options. The train comes at 3:28pm. If we cannot get on, run to the bus which leaves at 4:05pm. YHA called the overprices shuttle for us; he was to arrive at 3pm. By 3:10, we were nervous he was not there, but the YHA office was closed with the shuttle phone number hidden somewhere. Ron went next door to the motel to beg them to call. As he was chatting, the shuttle arrived. It turns out that one of the motel guests that just arrived is from Livermore, CA, not far from where we used to live and the husband of the pair is Hungarian-American.

Yes, we had seats of the train. Yes, there is an overgrown Kiwi sitting in mine. She tells me it does not matter; though they give you assigned seats, you can sit anywhere. Sure fine, but what was wrong with her assigned seat? She and her equally girth challenged friend were sitting next to each other. Across from them was a young person. In the beginning, gender was questionable. This person sat where there was only a single seat. A hooded sweatshirt pulled partially around the face with long hair covering the rest of it. For the most part, the head was hanging down in a shameful pose, but with certainty there was no shame associated with it. The jeans and sneakers did not provide clues to identity. My guess was that the two ladies had this person in tow, but it turned out to be a wrong assumption. They never gave a bit of attention in that direction.

Nicknaming these two DorrISS and Madge was quite easy, because listening to them was like a comedy routine. Madge who was sitting closer to me had on black lycra stretch pants with diamonds cut out down the leg. She had sandals on, but her feet were either extremely swollen or permanently melon sized. They flowed over the sandals like a fountain of flesh colored jello. On top, she had a red and white flowered blouse that was tent size, giving plenty of room to move, but over that she had one of those chiffon type see through, what is the purpose of these covers over it. Madge says to DorrISS, (no these are not spelling mistakes, they are NZ English accents) “Rally, I didn’t want to stat this strip like this. This time I wantd to enjoy’t, not be so teerd.” DorISS grunts acknowledgement and responds with “The dining car’s op’n.” It takes 8 minutes, but they manage to get out of their seats; part of this is the rock and rolling of the train. As soon as they leave the coach, the young person flings legs up and onto the table. Tempting as it was to admonish, I bit my tongue. It still smarts. When the dainty-less duo returned, they both have quiches, coffee, and two pieces of cake each. There is quiet from there corner for ten minutes. After the snack, the soothing motions of the train lull them to slumber land. Everyone thinks the engineer has blown the train whistle, but it is DorISS letting out a snore. Madge seems to be sound asleep when suddenly and without warning, she pops straight up in her seat like a supposedly dead person who has just discovered they are going to be embalmed. Now wide awake, she announces “DorISS, I need to get a gift for Maevis. Sh’is watching the kids while I am gon. Don’t know what to buy’er. No clue, I don’t.” Seconds after this proclamation, Madge is back greeting the dream weaver. This show continued on and off the entire trip.

On stage 2 directly behind us, on one side we have Americans – husband and wife, who are sharing the foursome seating with 2 Aussies. Directly across from them are 4 other Aussies. The American man takes out an iPad like devise, though I could not see the actual brand. He was perusing his photos on it, which made me wonder since iPads don’t have a USB port. These toys aroused the curiosity of the Aussies who wanted to see what the American was doing. As things evolved, a competition was brewing. One of the Aussies had to show off his pictures, but without accompaniments he could only use his camera. As the Americans showed exemplary appreciation of his skills, the US hubby would in turn show one of his pictures, to which the Aussie contingency remained silent. Then the Aussie showed another photo and the crowd cheered, the cheerleaders went into a routine, and the audience did the wave. For the American’s turn, again there was silence. He however, was not at all visibly perturbed by this reaction. BUT, there is nothing like a woman scorned. His wife was seething; she was so hot if I were still smoking, I could have lit a cigarette on her. She grabbed her husband’s iPad thingy and zipped through his pictures choosing those she thought should be Best in Show. Shoving the iPad under the Aussie’s nose, she would say “So what do you think about this one, Dave? Fabulous isn’t it? Don’t you think this is a fabulous shot?” Dave responded with a similar scene he had taken on his camera without ever responding to her questions. After this continued for 3 more pictures, she slumped over, hair covering her face and played possum. Her husband who was not being goaded by the interplay, just said “She has that gift where she can close her eyes and fall asleep immediately.” I really wanted to give her an Oscar, an Emmy, or a Ryan for her performance. I could barely have done better myself.

Our B and B host, Bruce Morrison was at the train station to greet us. His home is incredibly lovely. There is not one piece of wall art or décor that is not of impeccable taste. He only has 2 rooms to rent out, but each is perfectly appointed to make guests feel welcomed. There are 2 other guests here, Barry and Jim. They are from Australia, have been together for twenty-five years, and both were teachers. Jim is now a principal and Barry teaches part-time. After chatting for hours, the four of us went to dinner having a delightful conversation all evening. Perfect fun! They agree with us that restaurants and other things in NZ are overpriced. It is not just us.
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I just posted pictures for these two albums. Read the stories here, see the pictures there.

Ferry to Train Wellington to Kaikoura, New Zealand

Kaikoura, New Zealand

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Saturday, January 01, 2011

Men on the Run

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You would think we were fugitives from justice the way we move around. Having to get a taxi at 7am to go anywhere is unseemly, but we needed to get to the ferry station. Saying farewell to the north island for awhile, we are heading to the south island. Let me guess, you did not know that New Zealand was broken into 2 major islands. Come on admit you didn’t. I didn’t think about it until planning the trip, but yes, it is 2 major islands. Most of our time has been spent on the north island; now we are relocating for some southern comfort.

Once we left at 8:30am, our ferry ride lasted about 3 hours. The ferry is like many others we have used in the past to go from Holyhead, Wales to Dublin, Ireland or England to The Netherlands. All ferries are created equal with some just a bit more equal than others. Arriving in Picton, we had to transfer our bodies to the train station to continue our journey by rail. Our luggage was checked through to our final destination, a mid-way stopover to Christ Church. At the train station, a five minute walk from the ferry station, we were able to grab a bit at the Subway restaurant (another loose association). It is in the train station with few other options and time limitations making demands on us.

The train was cute, not seeming like a grown-up train. It was more like riding in a model railroad for oversized children. Not many people were in each car, but still there was limited leg room. Seating is two-two facing each other with a dividing table in the center. The scenery more than made up for any minimal discomfort. We passed huge pastures filled with dots of white fluff portraying the illusion that there were thousands of sheep. What, not an illusion, Ron says. Those were thousands of sheep. They dotted the greenery like bad case of white chicken pox. Then they were followed by fields of plain greenery with no stimulation. It was like saying to the senses, here is a mental sorbet to cleanse your mental palate before the next course. Ready, we are now bringing on the densely filled forest with trees lined up like green toy soldiers in straight lines up the hill. A lumberjack’s dream come true, there were millions of trees, evergreens mostly. Another grouping was lined up like chorus girls waiting to kick out their branches in unison. For our next course hold the salt, because this is salty enough. We give you vistas of the sea complete with seals dozing on rocks, tiny waves breaking over rocky beaches. There was literally something of visual interest for anyone’s delight.

When our train finally reached Kaikoura, we were not sure where to find the YHA. We are only here for one night. Ron thought this would break up the trip to Christ Church. Well, it turns out the YHA is about fifty miles away from the train station. Okay, not that many; it is 2 miles, but it might as well be fifty when you have luggage. The shuttle charged us NZ$8.00 for each of us. For gosh sakes if he were taking one of us there, he was going anyway, why another 8.00? What a rip. Once we arrived, it turned out they had no information on our connection tomorrow and we had to turn around and walk back to the iSite tourism office. The hostel lady said it was “only” a twenty minute walk. I have learned that when people give me approximate times, I need to multiple it by 12 and then take the square root of the product, and then align it with the retrograde of Jupiter when it is in alignment with Venus to get the real deal of how long this trip is going to take. Today, we only had thirty-five minutes before they closed, so there was no time to calculate, but run. We made it. Our bus comes at 4pm.

While in town, we decided to have a beer and I ordered some fries. The fries took so long, I needed a 2nd beer to wash them down. However, you need to know I am a light weight with alcohol. Two beers and I am drunk. By the end of the 2nd beer, I needed a Seeing Eye dog to get to the bathroom and the dog would have needed to help me once there too. When we left the bar, the whole purpose of wandering downtown was to go grocery shopping, but that memory was fading. I wandered into a different store first. Drunk or not, my instincts are to shop; that is how I am programmed. It was one of those stores where their primary products greeting you are fifty-six varieties of hand and skin lotions of different blends of fruits and herbs that most people have never before encountered in their life in any produce stand. I tried one, but like most of them they are so greasy, when I put my hands in my pockets, they slipped right out again. If had money in my hands at the time, it would have slipped out and I may have unintentionally bought something.

I was standing looking at other gizmos on a shelf still transfixed because of the toxicity of the beer. Either way, this young woman comes up behind me with barely a whisper saying “Excuse me.” Apparently, I was blocking the entire area for her to pass by me. If it were not for my superior hearing I would have ignored her request to get by entirely. With the influence of my imbibing shortly before, I looked at this twenty-something woman and said “Let me give you some advice while you are still young. Don’t be afraid to let your inner lioness pour out. Speak up, let yourself be heard. Stop your timid behavior or you will have people walking over you your entire life. Be self-assured. Be strong.” She looked at me momentarily with a blank stare, but then with an emotive effort she said “Get the hell out of my way you old drunk before I call the police on your sorry ass.” I must say this young woman was one of the quickest learners I have ever come across.

It was quite a trek back to the YHA after returning from town. They must have picked it up and moved it farther away than it had been. The wind picked up though transforming into a gale force. We had to fight the wind so hard as we walked back, it made me sober again. With the winds there was no case of wanderlust for us to be out and about again regardless of how tasty another beer would be. When we finally located the hostel again, there are no complaints about the view. It sits directly across from the ocean with mountains in the background – spectacular.
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